For decades, Annapurna I held the highest fatality-to-summit rate of all principal eight-thousander summits; it has, however, seen great climbing successes in recent years, with the fatality rate falling from 32% to under 20% from 2012 to 2022. This figure places it just under the most recent fatality rate estimates for K2, at about 24%. The mountain still poses grave threats to climbers through avalanche danger, unpredictable weather and the extremely steep and committing nature of its climbing routes, in particular its 3,000-metre (9,800 ft) south face, renowned as one of the most difficult climbs in the world.[7] It is also a dangerous peak for trekkers, as in the case of a 2014 snowstorm near it and Dhaulagiri which claimed at least 43 lives. As of 2022, 365 people had reached the summit of Annapurna I, while 72 had died in the attempt.
Etymology
The mountain is named after Annapurna, the Hindu goddess of food and nourishment, who is said to reside there. The name Annapurna is derived from the Sanskrit-language words purna ("filled") and anna ("food"), and can be translated as "everlasting food".[8] Many streams descending from the slopes of the Annapurna Massif provide water for the agricultural fields and pastures located at lower elevations.[9]
Climbing expeditions
The Annapurna massif, view from aircraftThe south face of Annapurna I
Annapurna I was the first 8,000-metre (26,200 ft) peak to be climbed.[10]Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, of the French Annapurna expedition led by Herzog (including Lionel Terray, Gaston Rébuffat, Marcel Ichac, Jean Couzy, Marcel Schatz, Jacques Oudot, Francis de Noyelle), reached the summit on 3 June 1950.[11] Ichac made a documentary of the expedition, called Victoire sur l'Annapurna. Its summit was the highest summit attained till that time, but not the highest climb; higher non-summit points – at least 8,500 metres (27,900 ft) – had already been attained on Mount Everest in the 1920s.
In 1981 Polish expedition Zakopane Alpine Club set a new route on Annapurna I Central (8051 m). Maciej Berbeka and Bogusław Probulski reached the summit on 23 May 1981. The route called Zakopiańczyków Way was recognized as the best achievement of the Himalayan season in 1981.
The first solo ascent of the south face was made in October 2007 by Slovenian climber Tomaž Humar;[14][15][16][17] he climbed to the Roc Noir and then to Annapurna East (8,047m).[18]
On 8 and 9 October 2013 Swiss climber Ueli Steck soloed the Lafaille route[18] on the main and highest part of the face;[19] this was his third attempt on the route and has been called "one of the most impressive Himalayan climbs in history",[20] with Steck taking 28 hours to make the trip from Base Camp to summit and back again.[21]
Flights
Several airlines offer sightseeing flights over Annapurna.[22]