Papi Chulo's is a Mexican restaurant with two locations in Portland. Eater Portland'sBrooke Jackson-Glidden has described the original taqueria, located on 13th Avenue in northwest Portland's Pearl District,[1] as "a colorful counter-service spot" with "design elements reminiscent" of similar establishments in California and Mexico.[2] The interior has an "open-format" kitchen with multiple paintings, including one of the restaurant's name on the kitchen's hood and another of a bottle of Corona with a lime, as well as a mounted marlin above the ordering counter.[3] In 2020, prior to the COVID-19 pandemic, Willamette Week's Nick Zukin described the taqueria as "a popular late-night destination for hungry club and bar patrons".[4]
The pepper margarita has a syrup made on-site and uses habaneros, poblanos, and three other types of peppers. The "Princesa" margarita contains strawberry syrup and lime juice. The micheladas and Bloody Mary come with Tajín seasoning on the rim. Palomas are also featured on the drink menu.[3]
History
The Pearl District restaurant's interior has strung lights and a mounted marlin
The restaurant opened on December 7, 2019,[7] in the space formerly occupied by PBJ's Grilled.[8] Restaurateur Ramzy Hattar owns the taqueria, along with neighboring establishments River Pig Saloon and Two Wrongs. He had started developing a business plan for a taco restaurant after the chain Pink Taco reversed plans to open in Portland, and he confirmed the launch of Papi Chulo's in July 2019.[8] The restaurant's opening was slightly delayed; in his September 2019 list of the city's most anticipated restaurant openings for the fall season, Eater Portland's Alex Frane said the taqueria was slated to open on October 23.[9] Hattar opened the restaurant with Antonio Javier Palma Caceres, who was raised in Yucatán and had served as River Pig's chef,[6] as well as Davide Bricca, who oversaw cocktails for both River Pig and Two Wrongs.[3][8][10] Food from Papi Chulo's was being served at Two Wrongs by February 2020.[11]
Outdoor dining area in the Pearl District during the COVID-19 pandemic
During the COVID-19 pandemic, Papi Chulo's, River Pig, and Two Wrongs served customers in decorated and heated covered tents. With permission from the Portland Bureau of Transportation, Northwest 13th Avenue was closed off to traffic at Hoyt Street, creating a street plaza for dining.[1][12] Papi Chulo's also continued to operate delivery and takeout services,[5] opting to staff for deliveries rather than partner with a food delivery service (which Hattar deemed too expensive), as of May 2020.[13] Sourcing quality beef in 2020 was frustrating and challenging for Hattar, who had to find meat outside SP Provisions because of the pandemic's impact on the food and meat industry.[14]
Exterior of the Pearl District location next to Two Wrongs, 2022
In November 2020, the business confirmed plans for a second location in a new development in northeast Portland's Vernon neighborhood called Alberta Alley. The restaurant opened on February 17, 2023.[17] The outpost has a similar menu and limited indoor seating, as well as a courtyard shared with neighboring establishments.[2]
Reception
In March 2020, The Oregonian's Michael Russell included Papi Chulo's in his overview of "Portland's 40 best inexpensive restaurants" and said the birria tacos "are among the best lunch values you can find downtown".[18] In May, Eater Portland's Brooke Jackson-Glidden included Papi Chulo's in her overview of Portland's "knockout tacos" with delivery and takeout service during the COVID-19 pandemic.[19] In 2023, Papi Chulo's ranked eighth in a list of Portland's "highest-rated" restaurants for tacos, based on Yelp data.[20]